Tuesday, May 22, 2012

e39 cluster unlock - Part 2

Instrument Cluster Test Function
** will continue updating on and off when I figure out what they mean / does **

Section 1 
1.0 - xxxxx                              VIN number
1.1 – 4812                               body number
1.2 - 837 235                           part number for cluster
1.3 – 043107                           coding / diagnosis / bus index
1.4 - 2896                               week/year cluster manufactured (week28,1996)
1.5 - 13_900                            hardware / software versions (HW13, 900SW)
1.6 - 500_06                            engine data (injection status, number of cylinder)    
1.7 - n/a                                  ROM status


Section 2
Cluster Test                                                                                 
Section 3 - 18



3.0 - 0324                                European Inspection /SI liter Data?                 

3.1 - 0061                                ??



4.0 – 0000                               momentary Fuel Consumption (ABC.D liter/1000km)
4.1 - 0013                                fuel consumption per hour (ABC.D liter/hour)

5.0 – 123                                 distance consumption (012.3 liters/100km)
5.1 – 0227                               distance to go (227km)

6.0 – 000283                           fuel level averaged
6.1 – 0284                               total tank level averaged
6.2 – 0282                               ??

7.0 - 093                                 coolant temp (93 degree celcius)
7.1 – 385                                outside temp (38.5 degree celcius)
7.2 – 073x to 076x                   engine speed (digital tachometer)
7.3 – 000                                 km/h (digital speedometer)

8.0 160-1AC                            hex codes
8.1 0582F4                              hex codes
8.2 018000                              hex codes
8.3 0C009C                             hex codes

9.0 146                                    battery voltage (14.6v)

10.0 08                                    country code

11.0 010000                             cluster code

12.0                                         not used

13.0                                         gong test

14.0 C781dd                             error memory - C7 Fuel tank sensor fuel pump side (confirm)

14.1 8d8806                             error memory - 8d EGS data lead disturbed

14.2 3F8800                             error memory - 3F instrument cluster current to high

14.3 d78100                             error memory - d7 fuel tank sensor (without fuel pump) - confirm
14.4 6F8800                             error memory - ??

30/5/2012 - post Reset (Test 21)

14.0 C781E9
14.1 8d8800
14.2 3F8800 *
14.3 d78100*
14.4 bf8800


Note to decipher the error code:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/99962-knowledge-base-peake-codes-e39-m5.html

15 through 18 not used 

19.0                                         Cluster Unlock On/Off

20.0                                         Fuel Factor

For example
(I was lazy to take my own pics, so this out from the net:)

So, this is how you read it:
    Test 7.0 = Coolant Temp
    097       = 97 degrees

This helps when you want to monitor certain vitals. For example, for my battery going flat something after a few cranks:
1) unlock your cluster
2) look at Test 9.0 for the volt reading (before car running)
3) start the car
4) continue to monitor Test 9.0 for the volt reading (car running)

If the reading is lower than normal for 2), battery probably needs replacing.
If the reading is lower than normal for 4), alternator probably having problem.

Monday, May 21, 2012

e39 cluster unlock - Part 1

The car battery has been acting up and so, I did some "googling" to find out more about the battery and alternator. Then I stumbled onto this.....

Yup, just like iPhones, the e39 also has diagnostic / information that is available on the cluster IF you know how to access them. And to think this kind of thing was available since '97 (or probably even earlier for other model?).... it is like discovering software "easter eggs" or iPhone "unlock/jailbreak". So, in my case - you can find out what is the voltage of your battery before and during you run the engine just via the cluster!

FYI - clusters on car build before Sept'2000 (like mine) is called 'low cluster'. After that, they are called 'high cluster'. Click here to know more.

Just to get the interest going, if you wanted to test if your cluster was full functioning (instead of finding out the wrong way that some of your information on your cluster was not displaying), you could run this test:


What else can you find out about your e39?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3134093/1999-bmw-5-series/page-6

Most of the information are display only... but interestingly... there is 1 section that allows you to 'tweak' fuel factor. Will have to do a lot more reading before I will be messing with them. In the mean time, I have a whole handful of information that I will slowly decipher. Stay tune...

Saturday, May 12, 2012

Car Alarm Upgrade

The car came with only 1 set of key and with no alarm. I've had a few closed calls of losing the key and if you know how much it cost to get a BMW key smith just to come over to get your car running, you'll know it is cheaper to just get this sorted out in the first place. My last close call y'day was a sign that I am just playing with time.

So, I woke up early this morning and drove over to get my alarm, immobilizer and spare key sorted out. I decided to upgrade the original alarm to....



due to security reasons!

HAHAHAH... sorry, due to security reasons, I will not be blogging about this. I might as well publish my online banking information and password. :)

It is enough to say.. I won't be going to sleep at night thinking ....

... if I lost or locked my only set of key in the car OR ...
... if I have to resort to this OR ...
... came back to where I parked my car and saw this...
The price you pay for some peace of mind...

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Water pump and MAF Sensor

Yes, I've been very quiet lately and that's because I have been busy with work, away for a nice diving trip but generally, not wanting to spend anymore $$$ on Miss Red until the situation with the bank has improved. This car was never intended to "stimulate the economy" but seems lately, she's been doing a very good job single handedly helping Ah-jib-gor, Mr.PM cum Finance Minister do this! And that b*st*rd tear gassed me the other day. MF.
Alamak... Ma'am, you also "Kuning"? 

OK OK, enough of the bitching.

After a good, short yet exciting, spirited drive last night - my dear decided to give me a nice birthday present after I switched her off.

When I drove the car out this morning, the car had no power and was practically running at 20km/h even on wide open trottle (full flooring!!). Parked the car at the side and as the car warmed up, it started to drive ok but seemed to still lose power at top range of each gear.

As I got closer to the office, I was really stepping on it only to keep it at 90km/h. No choice, detour to my mech to check her out. As I was driving there, I was wondering if I screwed the gearbox last night with the high revs. Luckily, mech told me these symptoms don't point to that (yet other smaller things are hinting at it - some have to be careful).

The suspect was the ignition and he proceed to check the plugs and the ignition coil. Lucky all 6 was ok. After taking it for a test drive, he came back and told me "Mass Air Flow - MAF" Sensor kong. He took out the cable connecting it (disabling the reading to the ECU) and the car could drove like normal. However, driving without a MAF mean the car will be drinking petrol as there is no sensor to govern how much air-to-fuel ratio to mix.

Part no. 13 62 1 703 275

To know more about MAF, read here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor

Mass Air Flow Sensor - Air pass from left to right. Signal sent to ECU via bottom 
Small sensor detect how much air is passing through
Air from air filter pass through MAF before going into throttle body

Unfortunately, we also noticed water started to drip out to the ground. Further inspection showed that the water pump had given way. DUIT LAGI! When he took out the original water pump, it looked really shot and I was convinced that this was more of a wear and tear than anything else. The water pump looked like it was never replaced or a long time ago! All corroded and the gear was also shifty. This morning's episode probably just accelerated the date of death since I was flooring the car and this in turn just turns the pump much faster.

Part no. 11517527910
E39 Water Pump

Everything seems back to normal and I've noticed that the fuel consumption has improved ever so slightly. Let's hope this can at least make me feel like this whole ordeal was worth it!


Luckily, this event was shared with the 2 guru-gee who help me pass time following them do their stuff. Red Arrow sprayed his big scratch (due to some vandal's itchy fingers!) in record breaking time - and not to mention record breaking cheap! Black Beauty now has 4 fresh new brand spanking tyre and a pair of "chun" no. plate.

: )